I knew for years before I arrived that I would fall in love with this city. What I hadn't counted on was falling for the sardine lady.

The love story began in 1994 with "Lisbon Story," German director Wim Wenders's ode to the city, its gentle people, trademark fado music, cobblestone streets and tiled facades, and the tiny, heartbreakingly cute yellow trolleys that make their way up and down its seven hills. Leaving modern Europe and the languages he knows behind, the film's protagonist enters the city with his heart and his senses wide open.

I vow to do the same and discover people who are Portugal's living soul, conscious of the need to preserve their heritage and constantly redefining themselves using a sage mix of beauty and sadness, with both the past and hopes for the future as guides.

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